In-dispense-able Components

By Leah Genuario, Contributing Editor

Dispensers play a pivotal role in enhancing the package and product
performance across all beauty categories.

Rieke Packaging Systems supplies an assortment of pumps for hair- and skin care brands.

Many diverse products fall under the umbrella of beauty packaging. Some trends touch every category—the “premiumization” of mass brands and the green movement, for example.

Trends can also differ widely among beauty packaging categories. This is certainly true in the area of dispensing—where formulations and usage drive dispensing design. Following is a peek at the latest dispensing trends and innovations divided into four categories: cosmetics, fragrance, skin care and personal care.

Cosmetics

According to market research company Mintel, U.S. product launches trended upward in most cosmetic categories from 2006 through 2008. With the recession, a slight downward trend emerged from January 2009 through the end of its research period in October 2009. One cosmetic category to buck the recessionary lull, however, was the Face Color Cosmetics/ Foundations and Fluid Illuminators category.

In 2006, there were more than 576 launches in the face color category, while 689 launches were documented in 2009 (through October). Along with its robust category growth, foundation dispensing systems have also experienced revitalization.

“Producers of cosmetics are offering multiple choices to consumers, especially in the area of foundation. They often use airless dispensers for liquid foundation, as well as for combining skin care and foundation formulations in the same package,” comments Terence R. Sweeney, director of sales for Mega Pumps, Eatontown, NJ.

For instance, Olay chose one of Mega Pumps’ airless dispensers for its Definity Color Recapture, “a two-ribbon twist suspended in a gel, which combines a touch of foundation, anti-aging moisturizer and skin toners,” says Sweeney. Airless dispensing enabled consistent dosing of all components and nearly 100% evacuation of the product.

Olay Definity Color Recapture receives a boost from a Mega Pumps airless dispenser.

Recognizing the role of airless dispensing within cosmetics, Airlessystems, Congers, NY, is offering a 50ml piston system termed Eden. Eden was specifically created for cosmetic products, offering a 1ml progressive dosage and numerous decorating options.

The sector is also boosted by other dispensing innovations such as dial-up systems.

Avon recently introduced its Spectra Lash mascara, enabling customized mascara application. With a twist of the package, consumers dial “one” for a natural look and twist up to two more times to build to a glamorous, full-lash look.

Han Hean USA’s OS Treatment Dispensers are available with metal or plastic overshells.

Applicators play a key role in dispensing. “The applicator is what makes the package stand out,” says Carol Gamsby, sales manager for James Alexander Corpor-ation in Blairstown, NJ.

The contract filler and single-use packaging supplier offers large foam heads and brush tips to make application easier and attract consumers.

Fragrance

Due to the recession, competition from scented personal care items, and a growing apathy toward fragrances, retail sales declined 5% in 2008, according to global market intelligence firm, Euromonitor International. The decline is expected to continue at least through 2013, according to the firm.

With the category’s current challenges, marketers of fragrances are faced with a quandary: make innovative products while keeping costs to a minimum.

“One recent trend I have noticed in the fragrance industry is the willing use of stock fragrance dispensers as opposed to creating a customized pump that requires significant tooling costs and lead-time,” explains David Hou, director, marketing and sales, Han Hean USA, Edison, NJ. “We have customers who two years ago would not have considered using a stock fine-mist sprayer for their fragrance products, but are now using our in-stock spray pumps because they are more cost-effective and readily available.”

Today’s stock sprayers offer plenty of variety. Valois of America, Congers, NY, supplies its VP4 spray pump for fragrances in multiple finishes. Its Beautiful Collection includes an array of metal-finished pumps, including patina metal finishes and vertical, striated designs. Featuring numerous bright and subtle colors, its Rainbow line provides a completely different look for the same VP4 pump.

MWV Beauty and Personal Care, Glen Allen, VA, offers personalization of its Melodie Clikit IP pumps through advanced sublimation decoration techniques. The decorations allow customers to leverage innovative patterns and images on the pumps.

Earl Trout, marketing director for MWV Beauty and Personal Care, says the company has unveiled other enhancements to its fragrance dispensing solutions. Among them, it debuted its new telescopic insert, providing an affordable and expeditious way to customize the length of the extension required in the spray cap.

No matter what the budget, innovation is king, says Julie Vergnion, product manager—fine mist, Rexam Personal Care division. “Innovation, in short, ameliorates the effects of a down market,” says Vergnion. “Recent examples from Rexam include the XD-11 fine mist pump and our invisible dip tube. Innovation will keep us, and our customers, positioned to accelerate as our economic conditions continue to improve.”

Garrett Hewitt has noticed increased demand for bulb atomizers—from fragrance to body powder.

Fragrance brands continue to get creative. “Restrictions on traveling with liquids, as well as busy lifestyles, are likely to prompt manufacturers to introduce more portable items, such as rollerball pens and fragrance solids for air travel and the gym. A weak economic environment may prompt manufacturers to add smaller 30ml bottles for consumers who do not want to spend $50 or more for 50ml and 100ml,” according to Euromonitor International’s report.

One such innovator is Juicy Couture, whose .5-oz. Viva La Juicy Perfume Gel is marketed for girls-on-the-go. Han Hean USA’s Agate purse atomizer package was used for the launch. “We modified the package so that it can be used with a treatment pump that can dispense a gel product,” says Hou.

Another trend noted is the use of bulb spray atomizers. “Bulb spray atomizers were commonly used in the 1950s and these days ‘retro’ fashion and accessories are very trendy,” explains Erik Graham, vice president sales, Garrett Hewitt International, Wilton, CT. The company has recently introduced a patented, leak-proof bulb atomizer, eliminating the need for transit caps.

Skin Care

Market research agency Kline & Company has forecasted a robust 9.9% growth for the skin care market category through 2012. Among its noted market drivers, the company cites increased use of natural products, as well as higher incomes affecting spending.

These drivers have translated into skin care packaging design, and more specifically, into its dispensing systems.

“There is a trend in skin care to use more sophisticated dispensing systems like airless dispensers, specialty applicators and other innovative delivery devices,” says Sweeney. “Consumers expect the delivery systems to match these premium formulas. The upscale trend has continued to move forward, and we’re seeing requests for higher levels of decoration as well.”

The largest dispensing trend within skin care is the massive increase in airless packages—and it’s not only because of their sophisticated, high-end look. Airless dispensers are a natural choice for organic formulations, but also protect specialty ingredients often used in anti-aging treatments.

“Product protection of sensitive formulations is a key driver of innovative skin care packaging. Airless dispensers are now being used in mass, masstige and prestige skin care products,” says Virginie Lemeunier, product manager—lotion, Rexam Personal Care Division, Purchase, NY.

“The continued growth of skin care products with higher viscosities and sensitivities to both oxygen and metal has spawned increased growth in piston- up, no-metal-contact airless dispensers that can be top filled,” adds William Heimach, director of sales, dispensing group for Rieke Packaging Systems, Auburn, IN. Rieke recently worked with Molnlycke Health Care on its UK launch of Epaderm. The product
utilized both Rieke’s 50- and 500g airless high-viscosity dispensers.

TaikiUSA offers a triple-roller head applicator.

Jan Wilson, vice president of development, TaikiUSA Inc., East Rutherford, NJ, sees increased use of pumps—airless and otherwise—as a noticeable trend hitting the skin care sector. “Pumps continue to grow as a trend over more traditional bottles and tubes. They are easy to use and convenient for the consumer and [offer a] point of differentiation over the ever-increasing range of products. All of the major brands are searching for a unique, ‘latest’ applicator that can give them a competitive edge.”

Rexam’s EZi mechanical squeeze-foamer is a great choice for foaming personal care formulations.

TaikiUSA Inc. helped P&G realize an innovative liquid dispensing system for its Regenerist Anti-Aging Eye Roller. “Our triple-roller head applicator with its massaging sensation combined with the airless flow-thru pen was viewed to be the perfect delivery system,” adds Wilson.

Skin care’s connection to the medical industry also drives innovative dispensing trends. “We are seeing the whole new cosmetic/pharma market for skin care,” says Gamsby, noting activity within “high-end, anti-aging serums.” For this market, James Alexander Corp. offers glass swabs with foil caps.

Personal Care

“With today’s wide array of dispensing options—including standard dispensing pumps with unique valve options, airless pumps, and foamer pumps—a personal care brand can create a family of products with varying formulations, and be confident the product can be successfully dispensed in consistent, metered doses,” says Heimach.

Foaming dispensers are a popular choice across the category. “A wide range of products, from dental care, to hand soaps, to body washes and kids’ shampoos, are using our mechanical foamers,” says Casper Kleiman, product manager—foam, Rexam Personal Care.

Kleiman sees several drivers for foam dispensing’s current popularity: ease of use, the need for less water, and compatibility. Besides that, “they are fun to use, and consumers of all ages love them.”

Rexam has introduced its EZi mechanical squeeze-foamer. Computer-engineered for no-drip, water-resistant and one-handed operation, foaming product is dispensed with just one squeeze.

Applications for foam pumps continue to expand, including into oral care. SeaquistPerfect Dispensing, Cary, IL, collaborated with GlaxoSmithKline on its launch of AquaFresh and Sensodyne Iso-Active Foaming Gel. The active gel—which transforms into a foam—is stowed in Seaquist’s Bag-On-Valve system and dispensed through a custom actuator, also provided by Seaquist.

Considering the active lifestyles of Americans, it is no surprise another trend within the category is the use of small-size packages and their corresponding dispensers. These miniatures enable consumers to grab-and-go, fitting them easily into gym bags, purses and even pockets.

Emsar’s Squeeze Mist mini-spray package is ideal for on-the-go products.

“Many consumers are looking for smaller, more affordable or more portable packages,” says Trout of MWV. The company has launched its new Mini-Trigger Curve and Mini-Trigger Petite, fine-mist sprayers suitable for hairsprays, gels, sunscreens and body sprays.

Emsar, Stratford, CT, offers brands its Squeeze Mist package. An all-in-one mini spray package, consumers squeeze the plastic bottle to release a fine mist. Made of 98% polypropylene, the bottle is easy to squeeze and offers a quick return for multiple sprays. Available in 3- and 5ml sizes, it features a 90° open-and-close
system and a cutout for easy identification of the spray orifice.

Emsar says the product is ideal for any on-the-go product, including breath sprays and body sprays.

Sales growth in hand sanitizers has also produced a surge in small dispenser orders. “With the onset of the H1N1 pandemic, there has been dramatic surge demand in the hand sanitizer market for 1- through 3ml dose dispensing,” says Heimach. “After market stabilization, we do expect this sub-segment to remain strong as consumer behavior shifts to more frequent hand-sanitizing habits.

Airless dispensers are also popular in personal care, and they continue to evolve. Mega Pumps has recently introduced its patented, self-sealing actuators, a system that can be used in tandem with the company’s Mezzo, Mini, Midi and Macro airless dispensers. The system provides precise doses for lotions, creams, gels, ointments and emulsions.

The actuator employs a membrane in the pump’s orifice to automatically seal the formula once it has been dispensed, thereby protecting it from impurities and contamination from oxygen. “Products that are extremely sensitive, and formulas that tend to yellow or dry out easily are great applications for self-sealing actuators,” adds Sweeney.

As can be expected in such a varied category, there are other dispensing innovations relevant to personal care. SeaquistPerfect Dispensing has launched its Co-Dispensing Valve System. The single-can system is designed to dispense pre-mixed, pressurized two-part products such as two-part hair coloring and conditioners.

Using a bag-on-valve inside a bag-in-can system, products are kept separate until the actuator is depressed. The products are then joined in a mixing chamber and dispensed as a single product. The technology can be applied to both thin and viscous products.

Sometimes innovation comes when an existing dispensing technology is repurposed for a previously untapped personal care category. For example, the sunscreen category has widely adopted a change in the way its product is dispensed, moving away from traditional plastic bottles and toward aerosol cans and sprays. Mintel Beauty Innovation reported in July that nearly one in five sunscreen launches in 2008 employed aerosol containers.